Aquanaut travel time reference. 5650G "Patek Philippe Advanced Research"
The Advanced Research Travel Time is markedly different from previous Advanced Research watches. First, it's the first Advanced Research watch that isn't an annual or perpetual calendar; it's the first that isn't round; and it's resolutely unconventional in shape. Additionally, it is the first Advanced Research watch to demonstrate innovation in materials other than silicon.
The first and most obvious innovation is the "compliant (flexible) mechanism in steel". This is the mechanism for adjusting the GMT indication forward and backward.
You can see the "Compatibility Mechanism" on the left, which is an excellent job. All are made of steel; no special materials are used, and while Patek Philippe says this requires considerable computer time, as well as high-tech manufacturing methods (the press release doesn't specify, but spark erosion is a reasonable candidate), strictly speaking , it is still the traditional material of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship. Given its looks, it's interesting to think it might be nicknamed "The Crab" at Patek Philippe.
The required level of precision may not be achieved using the classical method - the gap between the leaf springs, which form an "x", is only 150 microns - but the whole thing is done by hand (which is certainly, given the configuration of the mechanism , colloquially, a royal pain for anyone who had to do it) and it looked pretty cool too. It has an intuitive appeal; hardly anyone can think of such a thing, but when you see it at work, the rationale and structure seem obvious and self-evident. The easiest way to see how it works is to watch this little short video from Patek Philippe.
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Crab (if I may coin a moniker) has many advantages over the usual GMT switching mechanism used by Patek Philippe - less parts count (12 for the entire assembly vs 37 for the standard mechanism) and just as importantly, no gear or pivot. This means that no traditional lubricants are required, there is no friction anywhere in the mechanism, and there is likely to be better durability and general functionality. The only downside I can see is that it doesn't seem to be fixable. If there is damage or wear, you must replace the entire mechanism with a new one - the shell will molt the crab, not the other way around. Anyway, that's damn smart.
Another innovation is the addition of a new internal terminal curve to the Spiromax hairspring. Let's take a side-by-side look at the old and new versions.
If you look closely, you'll notice that the innermost coil of the new version has a slight bulge in the coil, similar to the outermost end curve. Just as the geometry of the outermost coil replicates many of the advantages of the Breguet outer ring, the new geometry of the inner coil replicates the geometry of a hairspring with a properly formed inner end curve. The basic idea behind all of this is to set the hairspring so that the center of gravity of the hairspring always coincides exactly with the center of gravity of the balance - the basic premise of isochronism. By adding the new internal terminal curve, Patek Philippe was able to get very good rate stability out of the watch - as we mentioned above, the spec is only -1/+2 seconds per day.
By the way, there is a technology similar to the traditional hairspring. Just as the outermost coil geometry of the Spiromax replicates the effect of the Breguet/Phillips supercoil, the inner geometry of the 2017 Spiromax replicates the effect of the mathematically correct inner terminal curve in a steel or alloy hairspring. One such curve is called the Lossier curve, and it is widely used by the American watch company Waltham in its premium railway watches.
Aquanaut travel time reference. The 5650G "Patek Philippe Advanced Research" is in the midst of some very heated and interesting debates - the role of silicon in watchmaking is a big one, and the jury is still out on whether it has a place in high-end watchmaking Very uncertain, although in the mid range, the problem has been solved. It's becoming ubiquitous, at least for many major brands (Omega being the most prominent example).
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The watch also raises questions about how Patek Philippe sees developments over the next decade. Style-wise, this is a polarized watch; it's not easy to like the classic configuration of earlier Advanced Research watches, a kind of silicon Trojan horse. The open dial and the fact that it's an Aquanaut has caused some dissatisfaction among Patek Philippe loyal fans, which I understand (and in general, I can't stand open dials either). With the 5650G though, I get the logic - it's a demo model and it makes sense to make the mechanics visible. Of course, seeing it in action is far more interesting than watching the silicon escapement in action. It is worth bearing in mind that this is a limited edition designed to showcase new technologies,
It must also be said that these are very interesting innovations, and if nothing else, I think besides being cool in their own right, they all offer real technical advantages (though there are tradeoffs in any engineering solution). Perhaps most importantly, though, both greatly add to the general conversation about modern mechanical timepieces, and where the next few years are headed.
Aquanaut travel time reference. The 5650G "Patek Philippe Advanced Research" is a limited edition watch of 500 pieces. Price, $58,970. Caliber, Caliber 324 SC FUS, 31mm, self-winding, 45 hours maximum power reserve, 29 jewels at 28,800 vph; Patek Philippe seal, rated for -1/+2 second maximum daily rate deviation. Dual time zone with flexible steel flexible mechanism for time zone setting. Case, 18k white gold; overall lug-to-lug length, 47.6 mm; diameter from 9 to 3 o'clock, including crown, 45.24 mm; thickness, 11 mm. Lug spacing, 21mm. Water resistant to 12 bar/120 meters. Strap, water-resistant composite material, with 18k gold folding clasp.
